Поздравляю всех с категорически наступившим Новым годом! Желаю радостей, здоровья, благополучия и ароматных приключений! Надеюсь, новый год начался у вас хорошо.
Я нашла под елкой два подарка — обзоры моих ароматов в блоге Аялы Мориэль, натурального парфюмера из Канады. Я очень ценю отзывы от коллег и горжусь ими! Кстати, в январе (надеюсь!) на этом сайте будет запущен новый проект — обзоры ароматов известных нишевых домов натуральной парфюмерии. И начну как раз с Аялы, и ее Ayala Moriel Parfums, вас ждет ее интервью, обзоры ароматов и розыгрыш ее пробников!
(это у меня вместо елки)
Ну а пока хвастаюсь своими подарками. Аяла пишет про Яблоневый сад: Apple Orchard is not so much about apples as it is about the orchard. And I envision an abandoned orchard, at the end of fall. Some of the apples are still dangling from the naked boughs, but most of them are already rotting on the ground… Despite the fact that the perfumes are using similar materials to my palette (Like yours truly, Anna Zworykina uses only natural oils, absolutes, tinctures and CO2 extractions, and no isolates), it is not easy to dissect them from one another. The perfumer has masterfully succeeded in creating something new and enticing from rather familiar notes. There is a certain medicinal quality that seems to be the perfumer’s trademark, and which gives it that feel of an old Chinese apothecary, with chest full of drawers mysteriously labeled, the wood thoroughly soaked in the aromas of the magical herbs contained within it for decades. All of the perfumes I’ve tried have a very unique «fingerprint» in that sense, and I suppose you can either find it charming, of completely off-putting. But to me this is a reminiscence of another era, where herbs, medicine, magic and perfume were all intertwined, when incense was burnt to ward off evil spirits, and sweet floral waters were sprinkled to attract good ones…
Back to Apple Orchard: At first, there is an apple-y accord, but with a significant amount of mustiness, which makes you immediately think of the abandoned orchard I describer earlier… Then you are reminded of the fertile soil underneath, forgiving the inattentive farmers and receiving these rejected fruit with open arms. This gradually evolves into the spiciness of oak barrels, with hints of musky opoponax, allspice and cloves.
Apple-like notes tease at first, but also bring the melancholy feel of fall: it’s harvest time. Gather your apples, or you’ll risk losing them to mother earth, to whom they will return in rot. The illusion of apples comes from the juxtaposition of bitter almonds, agrestic wormwood and hops — that green, skunky oil that’s used to preserve beer and give it the distinctive bitter taste and citrusy-fresh aroma. Cardamom lends a medicinal, camphoreous note that brings to mind a white-washed, silk-wrapped geisha in a dim-lit wooden pagoda, and that dusky feel of Japanese body incense powder remains for a while, until it is quietly succeeded by the undertones of dark amber notes of vanilla and labdanum absolutes.